Irish Meanderings Part I

Tuesday, 15-Sep
Flew out this morning at 11a PST. Continental Airlines turned out to be a revelation. They served us food and 2 (Free!) movies on our way to Newark. I am a convert. 2 hr. layover in Newark, left at 9:25p EDT for another (uneventful) flight to Dublin. Your choice of 40 (!) movies, 2 (!) meals, and unfortunately, although an empty middle seat, our seats backed onto the exit row, so did not recline. No sleeping on this flight for sure.

Wednesday, 16-Sep
Arrive Dublin 9a local time after flight time of 7 hours (8 hour difference from Seattle..you do the math :-) After a totally hot Customs/Immigration agent stamped my passport (and informed me that they are 'givers here in Ireland' ) we were sprung free of the airport. A bit of a scramble trying to find the Paddy Wagon (free ride to the hotel) but were on our way. Our driver fancied himself quite the humorist, and made sure we knew he was from the North Side, as opposed to the (allegedly) snooty South Siders.

Checked into the Trinity Capital Hotel which looks a bit like a designer's vision of Alice in Wonderland on acid. Vivid colors, random statues of camels and gargolyes, giant red and purple chairs in the lobby - giant like a photographer's prop giant. Had a cup of coffee, put our stuff in the room, and then headed out.

Got tickets for the hop-on, hop-off Dublin bus tour to get oriented. Hopped off at Kilmanhaim Jail. Some really dark history here, if you know your Irish history at all, this is the (final) place before the executions post-1916 uprising, where Eamon De Valera was imprisoned twice, and more. It was dark, it was dank, it was cold. And I was very glad I went, as it really brought those eras of Irish history home for me.

Back on the bus, and jumped off at the Natural History museum. An interesting look at the clothing, and silver of varying periods. Back on the bus, where we headed back towards our hotel. Major accident between a bus and a LUAS (sort of a tram) that closed Connelly street for hours. We made it back in a round about way, and decided to grab a bite. I don't really recommend The Round Stone - the owner/manager was very charming and funny, but his 2 immigrant waitresses were awful. A similar observation will be made r.e. immigrants vs. Irish in day 2. Meanwhile, I downed 2 Kilkenney Lagers, and was ready for bed. At this point I had been up more than 36 hours straight, and made it to my bed and promptly passed out.

Thursday, 17-Sep
Off to the Irish National Stud in Kildare. I am very excited. We took the Bus Eireann out; about a 1.5 hour ride through city-outskirts (complete w/strip mall and industrial) to charming villages (my future home? of Naas, Johnstown, and Newbridge. Then into country, where you start seeing the farms, great commons with sheep all over, unfenced; each sheep has a color and/or symbol painted onto their shorn backs - presumably for identification. We saw one man coming back with his herding dog, and sheep regularly held up traffic to cross the road. Finally through Kildare town to the stud.

What a beautiful place. We say the stallions Verglas (gorgeous gray), Celtic Swing (sire of Breeder's Cup winner Six Perfections), and Invincible Spirit - unprepossessing individual who nonetheless commands a 60,000 € stud fee per breeding. We also saw mares and foals about to be weaned, the museum of the horse where the videos of Arkle winning at Cheltenham and several others. I would have stayed for days if possible, but we did eventually have to leave.
Made it back to Dublin, and had dinner at Oliver St. John Goggarty's. Now, having strolled Grafton Street, and pausing here, I've caught you up on my adventures so far. I have a date with a Jameson's in a few...tomorrow I may go to Malahide, or take the DART out to Howth.

Impressions of first 2 days: the Irish folks have all been wonderful, helpful when help was needed, friendly, and, fill in other positive adjectives here. The (few) immigrants we've dealt with (immigrant by virtue of their Jamaican, and Eastern Asian accents) have not been particularly pleasant, and in at least one case downright rude.
The countryside is beautiful, I'm only half kidding when I say I think I've found my home. Its green and lovely and horsey - without the twee uber-liberal nanny state sensibilities of the Seattle area.
Dublin is busy, crowded, and very much a mix of old and new. There will be a beautiful example of Georgian, or Victorian, or earlier architecture - right next to some hideous boxlike building. Temple Bar reminds me a bit of the left bank in Paris.
I may not have time before we head to Dunfanaghy to post, but will do my best to get caught up after.