Monday, 28-Sep
The sun certainly shown on my last day in Ireland. I was trying to decide what to do last night, and realized that my next trip here will most likely start in Wicklow. So we booked a day tour of the Wicklow area, including Glendalough (Valley of the 2 Lakes).
The driver's name was John, and as it turns out he owns a riding stable and livery in Kildare, which you may remember, is one of the areas I have narrowed down to my most desired living spots. I immediately offered him my services as barn manager, and we have in fact exchanged email addresses. Stay tuned!
The ride out takes you through Dublin; very urban, congested and, well, a city. You then travel through Enniskerry; more charming 'suburb' like and starting to get out towards the country. Finally you arrive in Glencree (Valley of My Heart), home of the Peace and Reconciliation Centre (hoping for peace between north and south) - housed in a former children's reformatory.
Then it was up into the Wicklow Mountains, which are wild and beautiful, covered with heather and mist, peat bog and sheep. Then it was on to Glendalough - St. Kevin's monastic settlement dating to the 10th century. Cemetaries, round towers, ruins galore - just my sort of place.
On to Avoca - a charming riverside town, and all too soon back to Dublin.
Those of you reading along may have noticed that I never mentioned the Book of Kells, Guiness brewery or St. Patricks (among other tourist destinations in Dublin). Its because I never saw them. I walked past Trinity every day I was in Dublin, and went past Guiness twice, and "saw" St. Patricks. But the truth of the matter is this; I wanted to spend my time seeing the country, talking to the people, not doing the tourist shuffle past these things. And I did exactly what I wanted to do.
I've made some wonderful friends on this trip; Derek and Gerarda, Helen, Niamh and Claire, John, Cyndi and Maureen. And I've truly fulfilled everything I set out to make this trip be for myself. I fell in love, and found my place and I can't wait to come back.
Monday, September 28, 2009
Sunday, September 27, 2009
And they're off - -or a day at The Curragh
Sunday, 27-Sep
Today we headed out to The Curragh. It was about an hour bus ride from Dublin, back toward Kildare (home of the Irish National Stud). Today was Ireland's richest day of racing, with the Goff's Millions, and the Million Sprint, as well as 5 other group races like the Boodles Diamond Cup, etc. I bought a Racing Times for the bus ride and away we went.
It was overcast, but luckily not raining! As we arrived, the car park was filling up. Ladies in the most extraordinary outfits and hats were everywhere. Keep in mind - this is the home of the Irish Classic races, and playground for Sheikh Mahktum, and all that sort. Brown Thomas (their version sort of, of Neiman Marcus) sponsored the most stylish lady competition - and it was fierce.
But of course I came for the horses. As I practically sprinted over to the saddling enclosure, I was practically salivating. Lovely beautiful groomed to within an inch of their life horses! The first race was 30 horses going 6 furlings (3/4 mile). One the bus ride I had selected Irish Heartbeat, and now I was determined to go experience the bookmaker's stalls.
I wandered a bit, and finally made my choice. I talked to the man for a few minutes and finally settled for a 2 Euro wager. My horse ran 2nd and I cashed and was thrilled! They run strictly on grass here - Lynn was enchanted with the divot replacing crew. So exciting!
I also cashed on the 2nd race I selected, then decided it was time to go to the gift shop, and get a bite to eat and people watch! What a great day! The feature race had the top 4 finishers seperated by less than a horse length. There was a prize each race for best turned out horse (EVERYone who grooms should take note of this...!) All in all - a great great day.
The traffic jam getting out of the parking lot was not so great - 45 minutes just to get out. But finally made it home and trying to decide what to do with our last day in Dublin!
Today we headed out to The Curragh. It was about an hour bus ride from Dublin, back toward Kildare (home of the Irish National Stud). Today was Ireland's richest day of racing, with the Goff's Millions, and the Million Sprint, as well as 5 other group races like the Boodles Diamond Cup, etc. I bought a Racing Times for the bus ride and away we went.
It was overcast, but luckily not raining! As we arrived, the car park was filling up. Ladies in the most extraordinary outfits and hats were everywhere. Keep in mind - this is the home of the Irish Classic races, and playground for Sheikh Mahktum, and all that sort. Brown Thomas (their version sort of, of Neiman Marcus) sponsored the most stylish lady competition - and it was fierce.
But of course I came for the horses. As I practically sprinted over to the saddling enclosure, I was practically salivating. Lovely beautiful groomed to within an inch of their life horses! The first race was 30 horses going 6 furlings (3/4 mile). One the bus ride I had selected Irish Heartbeat, and now I was determined to go experience the bookmaker's stalls.
I wandered a bit, and finally made my choice. I talked to the man for a few minutes and finally settled for a 2 Euro wager. My horse ran 2nd and I cashed and was thrilled! They run strictly on grass here - Lynn was enchanted with the divot replacing crew. So exciting!
I also cashed on the 2nd race I selected, then decided it was time to go to the gift shop, and get a bite to eat and people watch! What a great day! The feature race had the top 4 finishers seperated by less than a horse length. There was a prize each race for best turned out horse (EVERYone who grooms should take note of this...!) All in all - a great great day.
The traffic jam getting out of the parking lot was not so great - 45 minutes just to get out. But finally made it home and trying to decide what to do with our last day in Dublin!
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Back to Dublin
Saturday, 26-Sep
Today was a sad day indeed, it was goodbye to Arnold's Hotel and Dunfanaghy, and off to Dublin.
Before I detail our Dublin day, I do need to update from last night. Derek and Gerarda Arnold, the owners and operator's of Arnold's hosted drinks and dinner for us, Helen, Niamh and Clair last night. It was a wonderful evening of talking, and stories, and friendship. Derek told us how Helen came to be running the stables (for the last 12 years!). He also told the tale of Paddy Dan Rogers - the King of Tory Island. Yes - the Tory Island you may or may not be able to get to or from has its own king.
Back to Saturday. The McGinnley bus ride was uneventful other than the cows being herded across the road, and then up the other side.
We said goodbye to Maureen, Cyndi and Liane at the Dublin airport and continued on into the city. We caught a cab to our new Dublin residence - Staunton's on the Green. Its a beautiful old Georgian era townhouse - and the room is huge and backs onto a garden, with St. Stephen's Green directly across.
We dumped the luggage and went walking, ending up at the National Museum (archeology). Thank goodness we did, as it is closed Monday, and tomorrow we are going to the races! We say Neolithic, Bronze and Iron age Irish history and pieces, as well as the Bog Men. These are bodies ranging from 400BC to about 400AD found preserved in Irish bogs. Apparently the acidity, temperature and other conditions are perfect for preservation.
We are now back at our hotel for an early night (we were up at 6a) and some Strictly Come Dancing. Tomorrow we are off for Ireland's richest day of racing at The Curragh!
Today was a sad day indeed, it was goodbye to Arnold's Hotel and Dunfanaghy, and off to Dublin.
Before I detail our Dublin day, I do need to update from last night. Derek and Gerarda Arnold, the owners and operator's of Arnold's hosted drinks and dinner for us, Helen, Niamh and Clair last night. It was a wonderful evening of talking, and stories, and friendship. Derek told us how Helen came to be running the stables (for the last 12 years!). He also told the tale of Paddy Dan Rogers - the King of Tory Island. Yes - the Tory Island you may or may not be able to get to or from has its own king.
Back to Saturday. The McGinnley bus ride was uneventful other than the cows being herded across the road, and then up the other side.
We said goodbye to Maureen, Cyndi and Liane at the Dublin airport and continued on into the city. We caught a cab to our new Dublin residence - Staunton's on the Green. Its a beautiful old Georgian era townhouse - and the room is huge and backs onto a garden, with St. Stephen's Green directly across.
We dumped the luggage and went walking, ending up at the National Museum (archeology). Thank goodness we did, as it is closed Monday, and tomorrow we are going to the races! We say Neolithic, Bronze and Iron age Irish history and pieces, as well as the Bog Men. These are bodies ranging from 400BC to about 400AD found preserved in Irish bogs. Apparently the acidity, temperature and other conditions are perfect for preservation.
We are now back at our hotel for an early night (we were up at 6a) and some Strictly Come Dancing. Tomorrow we are off for Ireland's richest day of racing at The Curragh!
Friday, September 25, 2009
Tramore Gallops - last riding day
Friday, 25-Sep
Today was our last riding day, and it was gallops (oops! I mean "controlled canters") at Tramore.
Since we weren't actually riding until 2p, Lynn, Maureen, Cyndi and I went up to the Workhouse. Built in the early part of the 19th century, this was the last desperate stop for the poor and destitute. There was a strict regime, and people were put to work at things that did not compete with outside trade. Breakfast was oatmeal and buttermilk, supper was 3 lbs (!!) of potatos and buttermilk, dinner was more oatmeal and buttermilk. The only greens or meat protein they may have gotten would have been from the wild blackberries that are everywhere or fish. There was doctor's calls Tuesdays, and schooling for children. There was no smoking, drinking, gambling, or "illicit reading material". There was a very interesting audio presentation of a woman named Hannah Harrity - a woman who lived through the famine, virtual slavery, eventually finding her way to the workhouse. She was there for a time, then left and became a peddler, eventually dying at age 90. Very compelling place to visit.
Then it was time to change and mount up. We headed back into Horn Head forest, along some tracks, through the dunes, and onto Tramore. It is an incredibly long stretch of sand (you'll remember that we visited it on Wednesday) and there are incredible rock formations at either end. The waves roll in, and its pretty surreal. You can look up the cliffs above you, and see sheep looking down to hear what all the commotion is about. Incredible.
All too soon it was time to head back up the dunes, back through the forest, and home to the stables. Helen, Niamh and Claire will be having dinner with us tonight, and then it will be time to say goodbye.
Its been an incredible week - it lived up to, actually surpassed, all my expectations. I'm not ready to leave. I will never forget this week, and definitely plan to return.
Random thoughts: Wilky joined us for the whole ride, and since, as a dog, he was running up and down investigating everything, I figure he probably went 3 times as far as we did!
It is estimated we did about 15 miles yesterday. So I would say maybe the same or a bit further on Tuesday, maybe 6 Wednesday and maybe 4 today. So these rides are not for the faint of heart or unfit - that's for sure!
Voodoo has been a lovely companion this week, and I am so glad Helen trusted me with him. He's only 5, so still learning alot.
The McGinnley bus comes all to early at 7:30a Saturday morning. Boo!!
Today was our last riding day, and it was gallops (oops! I mean "controlled canters") at Tramore.
Since we weren't actually riding until 2p, Lynn, Maureen, Cyndi and I went up to the Workhouse. Built in the early part of the 19th century, this was the last desperate stop for the poor and destitute. There was a strict regime, and people were put to work at things that did not compete with outside trade. Breakfast was oatmeal and buttermilk, supper was 3 lbs (!!) of potatos and buttermilk, dinner was more oatmeal and buttermilk. The only greens or meat protein they may have gotten would have been from the wild blackberries that are everywhere or fish. There was doctor's calls Tuesdays, and schooling for children. There was no smoking, drinking, gambling, or "illicit reading material". There was a very interesting audio presentation of a woman named Hannah Harrity - a woman who lived through the famine, virtual slavery, eventually finding her way to the workhouse. She was there for a time, then left and became a peddler, eventually dying at age 90. Very compelling place to visit.
Then it was time to change and mount up. We headed back into Horn Head forest, along some tracks, through the dunes, and onto Tramore. It is an incredibly long stretch of sand (you'll remember that we visited it on Wednesday) and there are incredible rock formations at either end. The waves roll in, and its pretty surreal. You can look up the cliffs above you, and see sheep looking down to hear what all the commotion is about. Incredible.
All too soon it was time to head back up the dunes, back through the forest, and home to the stables. Helen, Niamh and Claire will be having dinner with us tonight, and then it will be time to say goodbye.
Its been an incredible week - it lived up to, actually surpassed, all my expectations. I'm not ready to leave. I will never forget this week, and definitely plan to return.
Random thoughts: Wilky joined us for the whole ride, and since, as a dog, he was running up and down investigating everything, I figure he probably went 3 times as far as we did!
It is estimated we did about 15 miles yesterday. So I would say maybe the same or a bit further on Tuesday, maybe 6 Wednesday and maybe 4 today. So these rides are not for the faint of heart or unfit - that's for sure!
Voodoo has been a lovely companion this week, and I am so glad Helen trusted me with him. He's only 5, so still learning alot.
The McGinnley bus comes all to early at 7:30a Saturday morning. Boo!!
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Marble Hill
Thursday, 24-Sep
Happy Arthur's Day - apparently at 17:59 (that's 5:59p for those not keeping time) we were all supposed to raise a pint of Guiness to celebrate 250 years of the stuff. That would have been great - except we were still out on horseback.
When we woke this morning, it was...what else? Raining. No matter - riders will ride! Today's adventure began at 11a, when we headed through the water, over the sand, up the dunes, along the road, up a few lanes and onto the sand at Marble Head. We had a good canter, then a good gallop (although there was someone out of control, and a calmer, more serene ponychick did not pull her off her horse and beat her with the stick - but 'nuff said about that here). Then along the dunes, and up the track a little ways were we paused for lunch.
When we pause for lunch on these long rides, there are chairs, a fold out table, the lunches the hotel has packed for us, and the horses get tied to a bush or tree with a bucket of grain, and plenty of grass available - so everyone gets to eat.
Niamh had to go back to teach, so Helen (her mother) took the mount on Rodney and we headed for the old railroad and famine trails. The going on the famine trail this time of year is very boggy. Ciual in fact lost a shoe, and Cindy had to take Clair's mount on Midnight, and poor Clair had to lead Ciual back to meet the truck and farrier, and then ride him home.
The old railroad tracks are really something, there are some areas that were pretty clearly blasted through the hills and the rocks walls rise up on either side of you. All the old ties and stakes are long gone, and its overgrown with grass. Great cantering on the clear grassy parts, with drops on either side of you going down 20-25 ft.
We alternated between clearing and blustery rain today - but whether you believe it or not, you DO get used to it. I'm starting to feel spoiled by heather covered hills, friendly sheep that baa as you walk by, lovely cows, and donkeys, undulating green hills, and looking to see if the top of Muckish is visible or covered by cloud. Surf breaking against the rocks, gallops on the beach, climbing through the dunes, and looking for Tory Island.
We rolled back into the stableyard about 6:15 tonight - a long day's ride. But, since I've long ago run out of superlatives - awesome! I actually stayed to brush Voodoo, gave him my lunch apple, and did some back lifts and stretches with him. I left him blanketed up and eating dinner.
Tomorrow is our last ride (boo!) and our fastest. We ride for 3 hours, heading out to Horn Head Forest and Tramore again - for fast gallops up and down the beach. Helen, Niamh and Clair will then eat dinner with us, and we head back to Dublin Saturday morning. I am going to be very sorry to go - this week has flown by and I am not ready to leave.
Notes:
I have been misspelling Niamh's name (hint: its not spelled Neve :-)
A peat fire is the best smelling fire there could possibly be...I don't know how much I can get in my suitcase however...and it looks alot like a brick of heroin...so it probably isn't a great idea.
They have fushia hedges here....its just like the fushias we spend a fortune for in hanging baskets, but they are everywhere here growing as hedges!
Saw what we think were 2 Golden Eagles hunting a field as we climbed over to Marble Hill.
Happy Arthur's Day - apparently at 17:59 (that's 5:59p for those not keeping time) we were all supposed to raise a pint of Guiness to celebrate 250 years of the stuff. That would have been great - except we were still out on horseback.
When we woke this morning, it was...what else? Raining. No matter - riders will ride! Today's adventure began at 11a, when we headed through the water, over the sand, up the dunes, along the road, up a few lanes and onto the sand at Marble Head. We had a good canter, then a good gallop (although there was someone out of control, and a calmer, more serene ponychick did not pull her off her horse and beat her with the stick - but 'nuff said about that here). Then along the dunes, and up the track a little ways were we paused for lunch.
When we pause for lunch on these long rides, there are chairs, a fold out table, the lunches the hotel has packed for us, and the horses get tied to a bush or tree with a bucket of grain, and plenty of grass available - so everyone gets to eat.
Niamh had to go back to teach, so Helen (her mother) took the mount on Rodney and we headed for the old railroad and famine trails. The going on the famine trail this time of year is very boggy. Ciual in fact lost a shoe, and Cindy had to take Clair's mount on Midnight, and poor Clair had to lead Ciual back to meet the truck and farrier, and then ride him home.
The old railroad tracks are really something, there are some areas that were pretty clearly blasted through the hills and the rocks walls rise up on either side of you. All the old ties and stakes are long gone, and its overgrown with grass. Great cantering on the clear grassy parts, with drops on either side of you going down 20-25 ft.
We alternated between clearing and blustery rain today - but whether you believe it or not, you DO get used to it. I'm starting to feel spoiled by heather covered hills, friendly sheep that baa as you walk by, lovely cows, and donkeys, undulating green hills, and looking to see if the top of Muckish is visible or covered by cloud. Surf breaking against the rocks, gallops on the beach, climbing through the dunes, and looking for Tory Island.
We rolled back into the stableyard about 6:15 tonight - a long day's ride. But, since I've long ago run out of superlatives - awesome! I actually stayed to brush Voodoo, gave him my lunch apple, and did some back lifts and stretches with him. I left him blanketed up and eating dinner.
Tomorrow is our last ride (boo!) and our fastest. We ride for 3 hours, heading out to Horn Head Forest and Tramore again - for fast gallops up and down the beach. Helen, Niamh and Clair will then eat dinner with us, and we head back to Dublin Saturday morning. I am going to be very sorry to go - this week has flown by and I am not ready to leave.
Notes:
I have been misspelling Niamh's name (hint: its not spelled Neve :-)
A peat fire is the best smelling fire there could possibly be...I don't know how much I can get in my suitcase however...and it looks alot like a brick of heroin...so it probably isn't a great idea.
They have fushia hedges here....its just like the fushias we spend a fortune for in hanging baskets, but they are everywhere here growing as hedges!
Saw what we think were 2 Golden Eagles hunting a field as we climbed over to Marble Hill.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Odds and Ends
Wednesday, 23-Sep 8:45pm
Note to self: do NOT begin history lesson of Ireland, including discussion of Molly Maguires, Sinn Fein, IRA, et al at dinner with eavesdroppers amongst the natives. I will be locking our door tonight...apparently it does lock; something I was unaware of and have not done to now.
We saw a golden eagle today - they were extinctified from Ireland, and have only recently been introduced from 1 eaglelet of Scottish nests that contained 2 or more.
Tory Island: its said that Ireland was once inhabited by giants, and Tory Island is where one of them lay down to sleep. He is still asleep there, and you actually can take a ferry there. The difficulty arrives in the getting back. Its a treacherous stretch of water - the worst around these parts. Getting there may work out for you - but don't plan on getting back at a specific time (or day!)
I think that may be it for my post-prandial rantings and ravings....for now.
Note to self: do NOT begin history lesson of Ireland, including discussion of Molly Maguires, Sinn Fein, IRA, et al at dinner with eavesdroppers amongst the natives. I will be locking our door tonight...apparently it does lock; something I was unaware of and have not done to now.
We saw a golden eagle today - they were extinctified from Ireland, and have only recently been introduced from 1 eaglelet of Scottish nests that contained 2 or more.
Tory Island: its said that Ireland was once inhabited by giants, and Tory Island is where one of them lay down to sleep. He is still asleep there, and you actually can take a ferry there. The difficulty arrives in the getting back. Its a treacherous stretch of water - the worst around these parts. Getting there may work out for you - but don't plan on getting back at a specific time (or day!)
I think that may be it for my post-prandial rantings and ravings....for now.
Chills, Spills and Feral Ponys - Oh My!
Wednesday, 23-Sep
I should say right off that this ride was not for the faint of heart.....it featured very steep tracks, uncertain footing (to say the least!) but you were rewarded with spectacular views, and great beach gallops.
Today we started from Erorroey (sp?) and rode up country roads, forded a stream, and then followed some sheep tracks, or no tracks, up through the hills. Our companions were the sheep, and some feral ponys. There was a black stallion pony who watched us while protecting his band of mares and foals. A couple of the more curious young males came right through the fence and wandered in and out of our line of horses. They were adorable, but we were thankful the stallion stayed put as that could have been a different story altogether. I'd like to say I got pictures of that, but wasn't nimble or quick enough to control Voodoo and get the camera.
We then continued on up through the hills, through some fairly treacherous going. There are rabbit warrens everywhere, and if you can see the hole, you can be fairly certain there is a warren for a foot or 2 around it. Added to that, we are going up and down; some fairly gentle hills, some quite a bit steeper. So the horses pick their way slowly; your best course of action is to not interfere with the horse - his sense of self preservation is quite acute.
Roughly halfway between up and down, one of Ireland's famous rain squalls blew in off the water. These are short, but potent blasts of wind and rain. So we turned the horses rears to the wind, and stayed very still. To either side, or where you could maybe not see at all - were more rabbit warrens. So we waited for the storm to blow by before proceeding, about 15 minutes or so. Then the sun came out and it was back to brilliant blue sky.
We continued to pick our way down, and finally got to the back side of the dunes, where it was quite a steep track through sand down to Tramore (beach). This is a lean back, feet in the dashboard descent, most of the horses hopped and cantered the last bit as it was easier for them. Lynn's horse in fact, squealed, cantered down, promptly stopped, and lay down for a good roll...tack and Lynn and all. She chucked herself clear, and everyone ran around clucking and yelling at Cupid to get up. Again, I was too slow with camera - the picture would have been priceless. Lynn had sand in some unexpected places, but other than that everyone was OK.
Once we had regrouped, it was time for a gallop along the beach. No sooner did we get started then Maureen's helmet-cam came flying off. Stop, pick it up, stow it, regroup, and off for gallop re-do. We galloped along the beach, water to the left, and the largest natural dunes in Europe to our right. This is a protected area, accessible by horse or by foot. Absolutely beautiful.
Then up through the dunes again, winding along what looks like old sheep tracks, and then through Horn Head Forest. Finally came out on Kilahoey Strand (our home beach) and galloped back toward home. We were out from 11-3 today; it would have been shorter but the rabbit warren/rain squall hold put us out a bit later than planned.
A few words about our hotel: It is a charming, family owned hotel in Dunfanaghy. The carpet is a Scottish plaid - which sounds mad, unless you see it in its context. The lobby has all these lovely red stuffed chairs and couches, very comfy for sitting by the peat fire and reading the Irish Times. To the left is the restaraunt, which has had great food every night. To the right is the pub, 'nuff said! There are stairs in the center that go up to the rooms. The floors are bit uneven, and you wind around past some great old furniture pieces. Our room looks out at the water, which is just across the road. It is absolutely charming, and I can't recommend it highly enough; the people are wonderful, as is the food and atmosphere.
Tomorrow we go up Marble Head - another 5-6 hour ride. I'm trying to get a map so I can mark all the rides, we'll see.
I should say right off that this ride was not for the faint of heart.....it featured very steep tracks, uncertain footing (to say the least!) but you were rewarded with spectacular views, and great beach gallops.
Today we started from Erorroey (sp?) and rode up country roads, forded a stream, and then followed some sheep tracks, or no tracks, up through the hills. Our companions were the sheep, and some feral ponys. There was a black stallion pony who watched us while protecting his band of mares and foals. A couple of the more curious young males came right through the fence and wandered in and out of our line of horses. They were adorable, but we were thankful the stallion stayed put as that could have been a different story altogether. I'd like to say I got pictures of that, but wasn't nimble or quick enough to control Voodoo and get the camera.
We then continued on up through the hills, through some fairly treacherous going. There are rabbit warrens everywhere, and if you can see the hole, you can be fairly certain there is a warren for a foot or 2 around it. Added to that, we are going up and down; some fairly gentle hills, some quite a bit steeper. So the horses pick their way slowly; your best course of action is to not interfere with the horse - his sense of self preservation is quite acute.
Roughly halfway between up and down, one of Ireland's famous rain squalls blew in off the water. These are short, but potent blasts of wind and rain. So we turned the horses rears to the wind, and stayed very still. To either side, or where you could maybe not see at all - were more rabbit warrens. So we waited for the storm to blow by before proceeding, about 15 minutes or so. Then the sun came out and it was back to brilliant blue sky.
We continued to pick our way down, and finally got to the back side of the dunes, where it was quite a steep track through sand down to Tramore (beach). This is a lean back, feet in the dashboard descent, most of the horses hopped and cantered the last bit as it was easier for them. Lynn's horse in fact, squealed, cantered down, promptly stopped, and lay down for a good roll...tack and Lynn and all. She chucked herself clear, and everyone ran around clucking and yelling at Cupid to get up. Again, I was too slow with camera - the picture would have been priceless. Lynn had sand in some unexpected places, but other than that everyone was OK.
Once we had regrouped, it was time for a gallop along the beach. No sooner did we get started then Maureen's helmet-cam came flying off. Stop, pick it up, stow it, regroup, and off for gallop re-do. We galloped along the beach, water to the left, and the largest natural dunes in Europe to our right. This is a protected area, accessible by horse or by foot. Absolutely beautiful.
Then up through the dunes again, winding along what looks like old sheep tracks, and then through Horn Head Forest. Finally came out on Kilahoey Strand (our home beach) and galloped back toward home. We were out from 11-3 today; it would have been shorter but the rabbit warren/rain squall hold put us out a bit later than planned.
A few words about our hotel: It is a charming, family owned hotel in Dunfanaghy. The carpet is a Scottish plaid - which sounds mad, unless you see it in its context. The lobby has all these lovely red stuffed chairs and couches, very comfy for sitting by the peat fire and reading the Irish Times. To the left is the restaraunt, which has had great food every night. To the right is the pub, 'nuff said! There are stairs in the center that go up to the rooms. The floors are bit uneven, and you wind around past some great old furniture pieces. Our room looks out at the water, which is just across the road. It is absolutely charming, and I can't recommend it highly enough; the people are wonderful, as is the food and atmosphere.
Tomorrow we go up Marble Head - another 5-6 hour ride. I'm trying to get a map so I can mark all the rides, we'll see.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Making Muckish..
Tuesday, 22-Sep
We had our hearty Irish breakfast this morning, and gathered in the stable yard at 11a. We were led off today by Neve, with Clair bringing up the rear.
The weather was sunny, with a bit of a breeze as we started off, and had a wade through the water, then a couple of long gallops along Kilahooey Strand.
Then across the road, and up past both holiday and farm houses. Lots of sheep and cows, and green land like you would not believe. Green like Seattle could be if all developers were penned up and torched so they couldn't keep building over it. But I digress....
Up up up, forever winding up, startling the sheep along the way. We passed a famine graveyard, with both the mass grave for those who were unknown to the area, and those named from the workhouse. We finally left behind the homesteaded portion, and were now riding along the famine track. Literally the track where the evicted and dispossesed travelled by horse or foot or pushing carts to try to get to family, or the coast to emigrate, or anywhere they thought they might find work or food. Ireland lost (depending on the accounting) somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of its population during the muliple famine times; to either death, or emigration.
As we neared Muckish, the only other living things we saw besides our own horses were the sheep dotting the hillsides. I don't know (or terribly care honestly) about plant life, but riding through the purple heather was an experience.
We broke for lunch near a Loch, and the horses got a good eat as well. The little car drove up the farm road(s) and brought camp chairs, a collapsable table, and our packed lunches from the hotel. That hot soup never tasted so good! We had a brief shower while we ate (of course!) and then we packed up and headed out again.
We now followed the old railroad track, but it was so muddy from Monday's downpour that we kept it to a safe walk. Lots of sheep, some cows and some lovely donkeys! were our company as we rode along the crest of a hill, and then down toward the sea, where we eventually left the horses to stay the night. The little car came with their blankets, food, and halters.
In all it was an extraordinary day. Not just for the scenary, but seeing history from the perspective NOT written by the winners.
Wednesday (tomorrow) we pick up the horses, and ride back toward Dunfanaghy.
Note: if any of you are following/interested in international politics - the Lisbon Treaty vote is HUGE news over here. Ireland + 2 other nations in the EU voted no the first time it was brought to a vote. Apparently it requires a 100% yes vote to pass. The second round, Ireland was the only hold out. So they are forcing a vote again. I don't pretend to completely understand it, their own EU minister said it was unreadable. It will be very interesting to see if they force Ireland to its knees to vote yes this time.
We had our hearty Irish breakfast this morning, and gathered in the stable yard at 11a. We were led off today by Neve, with Clair bringing up the rear.
The weather was sunny, with a bit of a breeze as we started off, and had a wade through the water, then a couple of long gallops along Kilahooey Strand.
Then across the road, and up past both holiday and farm houses. Lots of sheep and cows, and green land like you would not believe. Green like Seattle could be if all developers were penned up and torched so they couldn't keep building over it. But I digress....
Up up up, forever winding up, startling the sheep along the way. We passed a famine graveyard, with both the mass grave for those who were unknown to the area, and those named from the workhouse. We finally left behind the homesteaded portion, and were now riding along the famine track. Literally the track where the evicted and dispossesed travelled by horse or foot or pushing carts to try to get to family, or the coast to emigrate, or anywhere they thought they might find work or food. Ireland lost (depending on the accounting) somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of its population during the muliple famine times; to either death, or emigration.
As we neared Muckish, the only other living things we saw besides our own horses were the sheep dotting the hillsides. I don't know (or terribly care honestly) about plant life, but riding through the purple heather was an experience.
We broke for lunch near a Loch, and the horses got a good eat as well. The little car drove up the farm road(s) and brought camp chairs, a collapsable table, and our packed lunches from the hotel. That hot soup never tasted so good! We had a brief shower while we ate (of course!) and then we packed up and headed out again.
We now followed the old railroad track, but it was so muddy from Monday's downpour that we kept it to a safe walk. Lots of sheep, some cows and some lovely donkeys! were our company as we rode along the crest of a hill, and then down toward the sea, where we eventually left the horses to stay the night. The little car came with their blankets, food, and halters.
In all it was an extraordinary day. Not just for the scenary, but seeing history from the perspective NOT written by the winners.
Wednesday (tomorrow) we pick up the horses, and ride back toward Dunfanaghy.
Note: if any of you are following/interested in international politics - the Lisbon Treaty vote is HUGE news over here. Ireland + 2 other nations in the EU voted no the first time it was brought to a vote. Apparently it requires a 100% yes vote to pass. The second round, Ireland was the only hold out. So they are forcing a vote again. I don't pretend to completely understand it, their own EU minister said it was unreadable. It will be very interesting to see if they force Ireland to its knees to vote yes this time.
The Wind in the.....
Monday, 21-Sep-2009
On Monday, we were supposed to ride up Muckish Mountain. Instead, the ride was cancelled due to driving rain and gale force winds.
So, being the hardy group we are, we instead went to Glenveagh National Park. I should note here that there are 5 of us on the ride;
me, Lynn, Maureen- a public defender from Baltimore, Cindy - a drafter from Baltimore, and Liane - a mixed (small/large animal) vet from Northern Wisonson.
At any rate, a taxi (read mini bus) ride up to Glenveagh, which was built as a vanity project by Adair in the mid-1800's to go hunting and host parties. Its a lovely place, unfortunately, he evicted 255 people in 1851 - so the history isn't as pretty as the site. There are acres and acres of formal gardens, only several of which I walked (in the wind and driving rain!).
We went back to the visitor center to eat the box lunches the hotel packed for us - although we had to eat outside under cover as there was no where inside that we could. The woman at the visitor center was great, and queued up all the informational movies for us to watch while we got dry in their little theater.
Then, because we are gluttons for punishment, we went on a 3k hike (yes....in the wind and driving rain) hoping to see some of the red deer or fox. No such luck - they were much smarter than the humans.
Then it was back to Arnold's for a warm up whiskey, a visit to the stables, dinner and bed.
Weather today (Tues) looks sunny, less windy, though still a bit of a breeze....so we will give it a go. If we make up, we ride 5-6 hours up Muckish today, overnight the horses there, pick them up and head back tomorrow.
Having a wonderful time. The people are fantastic; I keep meeting great folks, and encouraging them to talk so I can listen to their lovely voices.
Dad would be pleased (as am I!) that food is easy here. Cheese (yum!), the home-made bread (double yum!) some of the best bacon, super fresh fish.....um...maybe Voodoo won't be so happy that food is good here for the humans. I better do more walking/riding before I get home to the Mighty!
More tomorrow!
On Monday, we were supposed to ride up Muckish Mountain. Instead, the ride was cancelled due to driving rain and gale force winds.
So, being the hardy group we are, we instead went to Glenveagh National Park. I should note here that there are 5 of us on the ride;
me, Lynn, Maureen- a public defender from Baltimore, Cindy - a drafter from Baltimore, and Liane - a mixed (small/large animal) vet from Northern Wisonson.
At any rate, a taxi (read mini bus) ride up to Glenveagh, which was built as a vanity project by Adair in the mid-1800's to go hunting and host parties. Its a lovely place, unfortunately, he evicted 255 people in 1851 - so the history isn't as pretty as the site. There are acres and acres of formal gardens, only several of which I walked (in the wind and driving rain!).
We went back to the visitor center to eat the box lunches the hotel packed for us - although we had to eat outside under cover as there was no where inside that we could. The woman at the visitor center was great, and queued up all the informational movies for us to watch while we got dry in their little theater.
Then, because we are gluttons for punishment, we went on a 3k hike (yes....in the wind and driving rain) hoping to see some of the red deer or fox. No such luck - they were much smarter than the humans.
Then it was back to Arnold's for a warm up whiskey, a visit to the stables, dinner and bed.
Weather today (Tues) looks sunny, less windy, though still a bit of a breeze....so we will give it a go. If we make up, we ride 5-6 hours up Muckish today, overnight the horses there, pick them up and head back tomorrow.
Having a wonderful time. The people are fantastic; I keep meeting great folks, and encouraging them to talk so I can listen to their lovely voices.
Dad would be pleased (as am I!) that food is easy here. Cheese (yum!), the home-made bread (double yum!) some of the best bacon, super fresh fish.....um...maybe Voodoo won't be so happy that food is good here for the humans. I better do more walking/riding before I get home to the Mighty!
More tomorrow!
Monday, September 21, 2009
Muckish Mountain - or Bust!
Monday, 21-Sep
Dear Mom, today we were to ride up Muckish Mountain, and overnight the horses there, to continue on tomorrow. Unfortunately - our plans were thwarted by National Weather Warnings for gale force winds and rain.
So, we have agreed to trade our 'off' day (which was to be Thurs) and ride from Tuesday on out. I am sad...and cursing the weather gods who are messing with me. Voodoo on the other hand is neighing with relief.
So, we are heading off to Glenveagh National Park which has a castle, the largest herd of red deer in Europe, and is supposed to be a lovely hike (rain and all). I'll have to let you know how that goes :-)
One further note: the food here in this tiny village has far surpassed anything (saving the sausage roll) I had in Dublin. Cheers!
Dear Mom, today we were to ride up Muckish Mountain, and overnight the horses there, to continue on tomorrow. Unfortunately - our plans were thwarted by National Weather Warnings for gale force winds and rain.
So, we have agreed to trade our 'off' day (which was to be Thurs) and ride from Tuesday on out. I am sad...and cursing the weather gods who are messing with me. Voodoo on the other hand is neighing with relief.
So, we are heading off to Glenveagh National Park which has a castle, the largest herd of red deer in Europe, and is supposed to be a lovely hike (rain and all). I'll have to let you know how that goes :-)
One further note: the food here in this tiny village has far surpassed anything (saving the sausage roll) I had in Dublin. Cheers!
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Irish Trip Part III - or how Voodoo happens
Sunday, 20-Sep
Today (at last!) was riding day. My mount was to be a black Irish Draught x named Voodoo. The weather was clear - though a bit windy along the shore. There are 5 of us on the ride, an endurance rider who has 11 horses at home in Northern Wisconsin, 2 ladies who lease lesson horses at home in Maryland and ride 3x a week, Lynn and myself.
The stable yard is charming, with some old stone buildings, big stalls, and 34 horses total. We mounted up in the arena, trotted around a bit and headed out. We only rode for about 2.5 hours today, along the beach where we galloped, up some winding lanes past the original land owners (now abandoned) manor house, through some dunes, and back. It was grand, and the horses were fabulous! Dinner in a few, but wanted to share some observatons.
1) The daughter of the owner is Neve, and she and I talked for most of the ride. She is hilarious, and we had quite the chat. Her opinion on Elizabeth I (that golden 'bitch'!) gives you a whole 'nother perspective of that era in history!
2) Voodoo and I started out a bit rough when his feet flew out from under him on a trot down the beach, he was on his knees, I gave him his head, he got up and we continued on. I think that sealed the deal for Neve that I really could ride haha!
3) Neve has a little Jack Russel mix that is the mayor of Dunfanaghy. He goes around the village visiting, and everyone knows him. He thinks he owns the village!
4) Tomorrow we ride for 5-6 hours, up Muckish Mountain. Will probably rain, but c'est la vie.
5) Cork lost to Kerry in the GAA All Irish Championships. Ah well..off to raise a glass to those gallant lads from Cork for giving it their all today :-)
Hopefully more to come tomorrow!!
p.s. for those who are fans...we've gotten to watch Strictly Come Dancing - the BBC equivalent of Dancing With the Stars...review to follow!
Today (at last!) was riding day. My mount was to be a black Irish Draught x named Voodoo. The weather was clear - though a bit windy along the shore. There are 5 of us on the ride, an endurance rider who has 11 horses at home in Northern Wisconsin, 2 ladies who lease lesson horses at home in Maryland and ride 3x a week, Lynn and myself.
The stable yard is charming, with some old stone buildings, big stalls, and 34 horses total. We mounted up in the arena, trotted around a bit and headed out. We only rode for about 2.5 hours today, along the beach where we galloped, up some winding lanes past the original land owners (now abandoned) manor house, through some dunes, and back. It was grand, and the horses were fabulous! Dinner in a few, but wanted to share some observatons.
1) The daughter of the owner is Neve, and she and I talked for most of the ride. She is hilarious, and we had quite the chat. Her opinion on Elizabeth I (that golden 'bitch'!) gives you a whole 'nother perspective of that era in history!
2) Voodoo and I started out a bit rough when his feet flew out from under him on a trot down the beach, he was on his knees, I gave him his head, he got up and we continued on. I think that sealed the deal for Neve that I really could ride haha!
3) Neve has a little Jack Russel mix that is the mayor of Dunfanaghy. He goes around the village visiting, and everyone knows him. He thinks he owns the village!
4) Tomorrow we ride for 5-6 hours, up Muckish Mountain. Will probably rain, but c'est la vie.
5) Cork lost to Kerry in the GAA All Irish Championships. Ah well..off to raise a glass to those gallant lads from Cork for giving it their all today :-)
Hopefully more to come tomorrow!!
p.s. for those who are fans...we've gotten to watch Strictly Come Dancing - the BBC equivalent of Dancing With the Stars...review to follow!
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Irish Trip Part Deux
Friday, 18-Sep
I decided to take the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) out to see Malahide Castle. First I had to hit Starbucks...the right size coffee and a straw!
Malahide Castle was originally built in the 12th century by the Talbot originally granted the lands by Henry II. The Talbot family lived there for almost 800 years, adding on to the Norman tower, and only briefly displaced during the Cromwell era. The last Talbots was Milo, who died unexpectedly in 1973 without issue as they say, and his sister Rose, who sold the estate to the Irish National Parks Board in 1975 and retired to another family estate in Tasmania. She never married or reproduced, and died at age 93 in February of this year.
The castle grounds are huge, with footpaths through the park, and jogging trails, playgrounds, GAA and cricket fields. It was really cool, and worth the trip out. In fact, Malahide won an award for 'Tidy Town'.
Once back in Dublin, I realized that I may have severely underestimated my need for Euros, so tried to get more at the National Bank of Ireland, where I was essentially met with blank stares. What-ev. Dinner, an evening stroll, shopping, and on the way back to the hotel, overheard this exchange between a man and woman at the bus stop 'here we go...fighting in public again'. LOL!
Saturday, 19-Sep
Finally off to Dunfanaghy. Essentially a 5 hour bus ride from the SE to the NW of Ireland, with lots of beautiful scenary along the way. Brief rain squall in the middle, but sun upon arrival.
Dunfanaghy is just like any of the sleepy seaside tourist towns you've read about. 1 main street with a few shops. I of course, headed straight for the stables. I am currently scheduled to ride 'Voodoo', but have also been offered the ride on 'Big Trevor'. We'll find out tomorrow, when we ride for the first time.
I'm very excited to finally (!) get to ride...I am having severe horse withdrawals. One additional note: the all Irish Championship for GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association - Irish football) is Sunday - Kerry vs Cork. Its huge everywhere you go here, people and places in one set of colors or the other. I believe I am rooting for Cork...the red and white!
Now that I know we have net access here, I'll try to update daily.
MB
I decided to take the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) out to see Malahide Castle. First I had to hit Starbucks...the right size coffee and a straw!
Malahide Castle was originally built in the 12th century by the Talbot originally granted the lands by Henry II. The Talbot family lived there for almost 800 years, adding on to the Norman tower, and only briefly displaced during the Cromwell era. The last Talbots was Milo, who died unexpectedly in 1973 without issue as they say, and his sister Rose, who sold the estate to the Irish National Parks Board in 1975 and retired to another family estate in Tasmania. She never married or reproduced, and died at age 93 in February of this year.
The castle grounds are huge, with footpaths through the park, and jogging trails, playgrounds, GAA and cricket fields. It was really cool, and worth the trip out. In fact, Malahide won an award for 'Tidy Town'.
Once back in Dublin, I realized that I may have severely underestimated my need for Euros, so tried to get more at the National Bank of Ireland, where I was essentially met with blank stares. What-ev. Dinner, an evening stroll, shopping, and on the way back to the hotel, overheard this exchange between a man and woman at the bus stop 'here we go...fighting in public again'. LOL!
Saturday, 19-Sep
Finally off to Dunfanaghy. Essentially a 5 hour bus ride from the SE to the NW of Ireland, with lots of beautiful scenary along the way. Brief rain squall in the middle, but sun upon arrival.
Dunfanaghy is just like any of the sleepy seaside tourist towns you've read about. 1 main street with a few shops. I of course, headed straight for the stables. I am currently scheduled to ride 'Voodoo', but have also been offered the ride on 'Big Trevor'. We'll find out tomorrow, when we ride for the first time.
I'm very excited to finally (!) get to ride...I am having severe horse withdrawals. One additional note: the all Irish Championship for GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association - Irish football) is Sunday - Kerry vs Cork. Its huge everywhere you go here, people and places in one set of colors or the other. I believe I am rooting for Cork...the red and white!
Now that I know we have net access here, I'll try to update daily.
MB
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Irish Meanderings Part I
Tuesday, 15-Sep
Flew out this morning at 11a PST. Continental Airlines turned out to be a revelation. They served us food and 2 (Free!) movies on our way to Newark. I am a convert. 2 hr. layover in Newark, left at 9:25p EDT for another (uneventful) flight to Dublin. Your choice of 40 (!) movies, 2 (!) meals, and unfortunately, although an empty middle seat, our seats backed onto the exit row, so did not recline. No sleeping on this flight for sure.
Wednesday, 16-Sep
Arrive Dublin 9a local time after flight time of 7 hours (8 hour difference from Seattle..you do the math :-) After a totally hot Customs/Immigration agent stamped my passport (and informed me that they are 'givers here in Ireland' ) we were sprung free of the airport. A bit of a scramble trying to find the Paddy Wagon (free ride to the hotel) but were on our way. Our driver fancied himself quite the humorist, and made sure we knew he was from the North Side, as opposed to the (allegedly) snooty South Siders.
Checked into the Trinity Capital Hotel which looks a bit like a designer's vision of Alice in Wonderland on acid. Vivid colors, random statues of camels and gargolyes, giant red and purple chairs in the lobby - giant like a photographer's prop giant. Had a cup of coffee, put our stuff in the room, and then headed out.
Got tickets for the hop-on, hop-off Dublin bus tour to get oriented. Hopped off at Kilmanhaim Jail. Some really dark history here, if you know your Irish history at all, this is the (final) place before the executions post-1916 uprising, where Eamon De Valera was imprisoned twice, and more. It was dark, it was dank, it was cold. And I was very glad I went, as it really brought those eras of Irish history home for me.
Back on the bus, and jumped off at the Natural History museum. An interesting look at the clothing, and silver of varying periods. Back on the bus, where we headed back towards our hotel. Major accident between a bus and a LUAS (sort of a tram) that closed Connelly street for hours. We made it back in a round about way, and decided to grab a bite. I don't really recommend The Round Stone - the owner/manager was very charming and funny, but his 2 immigrant waitresses were awful. A similar observation will be made r.e. immigrants vs. Irish in day 2. Meanwhile, I downed 2 Kilkenney Lagers, and was ready for bed. At this point I had been up more than 36 hours straight, and made it to my bed and promptly passed out.
Thursday, 17-Sep
Off to the Irish National Stud in Kildare. I am very excited. We took the Bus Eireann out; about a 1.5 hour ride through city-outskirts (complete w/strip mall and industrial) to charming villages (my future home? of Naas, Johnstown, and Newbridge. Then into country, where you start seeing the farms, great commons with sheep all over, unfenced; each sheep has a color and/or symbol painted onto their shorn backs - presumably for identification. We saw one man coming back with his herding dog, and sheep regularly held up traffic to cross the road. Finally through Kildare town to the stud.
What a beautiful place. We say the stallions Verglas (gorgeous gray), Celtic Swing (sire of Breeder's Cup winner Six Perfections), and Invincible Spirit - unprepossessing individual who nonetheless commands a 60,000 € stud fee per breeding. We also saw mares and foals about to be weaned, the museum of the horse where the videos of Arkle winning at Cheltenham and several others. I would have stayed for days if possible, but we did eventually have to leave.
Made it back to Dublin, and had dinner at Oliver St. John Goggarty's. Now, having strolled Grafton Street, and pausing here, I've caught you up on my adventures so far. I have a date with a Jameson's in a few...tomorrow I may go to Malahide, or take the DART out to Howth.
Impressions of first 2 days: the Irish folks have all been wonderful, helpful when help was needed, friendly, and, fill in other positive adjectives here. The (few) immigrants we've dealt with (immigrant by virtue of their Jamaican, and Eastern Asian accents) have not been particularly pleasant, and in at least one case downright rude.
The countryside is beautiful, I'm only half kidding when I say I think I've found my home. Its green and lovely and horsey - without the twee uber-liberal nanny state sensibilities of the Seattle area.
Dublin is busy, crowded, and very much a mix of old and new. There will be a beautiful example of Georgian, or Victorian, or earlier architecture - right next to some hideous boxlike building. Temple Bar reminds me a bit of the left bank in Paris.
I may not have time before we head to Dunfanaghy to post, but will do my best to get caught up after.
Flew out this morning at 11a PST. Continental Airlines turned out to be a revelation. They served us food and 2 (Free!) movies on our way to Newark. I am a convert. 2 hr. layover in Newark, left at 9:25p EDT for another (uneventful) flight to Dublin. Your choice of 40 (!) movies, 2 (!) meals, and unfortunately, although an empty middle seat, our seats backed onto the exit row, so did not recline. No sleeping on this flight for sure.
Wednesday, 16-Sep
Arrive Dublin 9a local time after flight time of 7 hours (8 hour difference from Seattle..you do the math :-) After a totally hot Customs/Immigration agent stamped my passport (and informed me that they are 'givers here in Ireland' ) we were sprung free of the airport. A bit of a scramble trying to find the Paddy Wagon (free ride to the hotel) but were on our way. Our driver fancied himself quite the humorist, and made sure we knew he was from the North Side, as opposed to the (allegedly) snooty South Siders.
Checked into the Trinity Capital Hotel which looks a bit like a designer's vision of Alice in Wonderland on acid. Vivid colors, random statues of camels and gargolyes, giant red and purple chairs in the lobby - giant like a photographer's prop giant. Had a cup of coffee, put our stuff in the room, and then headed out.
Got tickets for the hop-on, hop-off Dublin bus tour to get oriented. Hopped off at Kilmanhaim Jail. Some really dark history here, if you know your Irish history at all, this is the (final) place before the executions post-1916 uprising, where Eamon De Valera was imprisoned twice, and more. It was dark, it was dank, it was cold. And I was very glad I went, as it really brought those eras of Irish history home for me.
Back on the bus, and jumped off at the Natural History museum. An interesting look at the clothing, and silver of varying periods. Back on the bus, where we headed back towards our hotel. Major accident between a bus and a LUAS (sort of a tram) that closed Connelly street for hours. We made it back in a round about way, and decided to grab a bite. I don't really recommend The Round Stone - the owner/manager was very charming and funny, but his 2 immigrant waitresses were awful. A similar observation will be made r.e. immigrants vs. Irish in day 2. Meanwhile, I downed 2 Kilkenney Lagers, and was ready for bed. At this point I had been up more than 36 hours straight, and made it to my bed and promptly passed out.
Thursday, 17-Sep
Off to the Irish National Stud in Kildare. I am very excited. We took the Bus Eireann out; about a 1.5 hour ride through city-outskirts (complete w/strip mall and industrial) to charming villages (my future home? of Naas, Johnstown, and Newbridge. Then into country, where you start seeing the farms, great commons with sheep all over, unfenced; each sheep has a color and/or symbol painted onto their shorn backs - presumably for identification. We saw one man coming back with his herding dog, and sheep regularly held up traffic to cross the road. Finally through Kildare town to the stud.
What a beautiful place. We say the stallions Verglas (gorgeous gray), Celtic Swing (sire of Breeder's Cup winner Six Perfections), and Invincible Spirit - unprepossessing individual who nonetheless commands a 60,000 € stud fee per breeding. We also saw mares and foals about to be weaned, the museum of the horse where the videos of Arkle winning at Cheltenham and several others. I would have stayed for days if possible, but we did eventually have to leave.
Made it back to Dublin, and had dinner at Oliver St. John Goggarty's. Now, having strolled Grafton Street, and pausing here, I've caught you up on my adventures so far. I have a date with a Jameson's in a few...tomorrow I may go to Malahide, or take the DART out to Howth.
Impressions of first 2 days: the Irish folks have all been wonderful, helpful when help was needed, friendly, and, fill in other positive adjectives here. The (few) immigrants we've dealt with (immigrant by virtue of their Jamaican, and Eastern Asian accents) have not been particularly pleasant, and in at least one case downright rude.
The countryside is beautiful, I'm only half kidding when I say I think I've found my home. Its green and lovely and horsey - without the twee uber-liberal nanny state sensibilities of the Seattle area.
Dublin is busy, crowded, and very much a mix of old and new. There will be a beautiful example of Georgian, or Victorian, or earlier architecture - right next to some hideous boxlike building. Temple Bar reminds me a bit of the left bank in Paris.
I may not have time before we head to Dunfanaghy to post, but will do my best to get caught up after.
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